Begin by heating olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add chopped eschalots (or onion), garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and oregano. Cook until the onion is translucent, about 3–4 minutes. Then stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute to deepen flavor. Pour in the white wine and let it simmer until mostly evaporated. Add the tomato passata, vegetable stock, sugar, salt, and pepper. Simmer uncovered for 20 minutes. The sauce will be quite thin — this is intentional, as it allows uncooked shells to absorb liquid and cook inside the sauce.
While the sauce simmers, work on the stuffing. Squeeze out all excess moisture from your thawed spinach (use your hands or a clean dish towel). In a large bowl, combine the spinach, ricotta, Parmesan, shredded cheese, egg, minced garlic, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Stir until evenly mixed and creamy.
You don’t need to pre-boil the shells. Simply spoon the spinach-ricotta filling into raw jumbo pasta shells. I find using a small offset spatula or butter knife makes filling easier and keeps shells intact.
Preheat your oven to 200 °C (about 400 °F). Pour the hot sauce into a 9×13-inch (23×33 cm) baking dish. Place the stuffed shells gently into the sauce. They should be mostly submerged (a little poking out is okay). Cover the dish tightly — the original method uses another baking tray as cover — and bake for 70 minutes. After that, remove the cover, sprinkle extra cheese on top, and return to the oven for 15 more minutes until golden and bubbly.
Take the dish out, let it rest 5–10 minutes so it sets a little, then serve. You’ll find shells perfectly cooked, sauce rich and reduced, and plenty of luscious sauce to spoon over each portion.